Showing posts with label #Busan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #Busan. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

South Korea: The Bottom 6

For every top there is a bottom. Here is my list of the things I didn't quite like about Korea. This isn't meant to say they are the worst things in the galaxy. Please keep in mind this is only from my experiences and times in Korea. Every person is bound to have a different opinion or experience based on the time and place they were/are located.

Number 6: The world is Your Parking lot.


We've all seen the joker who takes up two parking spaces for their luxury car, the person in a hurry at the grocery store who parks their car in the loading zone and the guy who parks with the tail end of their large vehicle poking out into the street. These are regular annoyances all drivers will come across at some point in time. To put it into a metaphor if bad parking in the USA is minor league baseball, Korea (and perhaps Asia) is the big leagues. Every day I was reminded that I was but a pilgrim in a strange land. Places meant for people to walk would be blocked by a car forcing pedestrians to casually walk into the street. This is normal life in Korea.

I  NEED MY STARBUCKS NOW!!

Now, I can understand if there is an emergency. You're having a baby or some other important medical emergency? Fuck it park where ever the hell you want! But if you just want coffee and can't be bothered to walk a block or park in the basement parking I have no sympathy for you. Also be wary of drunk drivers who after realizing they are entirely too drunk to drive a vehicle park their car in a somewhat inconspicuous places.



There is a man in this picture

One night after a few drinks a friend and I stumbled upon a man half in his car. He was pleading for help from Koreans passing by but to no avail. He eventually saw us gawking at him and decided to ask us to help (with what we have no idea). "Heeeeelp" he stammered. When we asked him what he needed help with he just continued to say help until he passed out (still half way in the car). We joked that it would be funny to tie one of us up, put us in the backseat or trunk and see how he reacted when he awoke. By the morning his car was gone but he left behind a rather funny story.



Number 5: The Zoo

One fat pussy cat

I don't know why I still go to these places. When you're a child the Zoo is a wonderful place to see creatures from far off lands. Things that you may only see on TV or in a book. Though when you become an adult they are basically animal prisons. Don't get me wrong some establishments are incredibly well run with the animals health (both mental and physical) being the utmost priority. Though I don't think Korea got this memo. 

Wolf in a cage

On a trip to Daegu I decided the zoo would be a good stop. I hadn't seen much wildlife in Korea and I was hankering to see something other than pigeons and stray cats. Soon after entering the zoo the old familiar feeling of "Why the F' did I come to one of these places again," crept over me. The picture above is of a wolf who was put into a tiny cage. It spent the entire time pacing back and forth, back and forth. On the floor laid a slab of meat that hadn't been touched. The wolf looked as though it had gotten cabin fever and written an entire novel using only the sentence, "All work and no play makes wolfie a dull boy." This was at the first exhibit I strolled through.

1.5 tusked elephant

After making the rounds I finally ended up at the elephant exhibit. It was a small enclosure with a barn like structure behind it surrounded by a ditch to keep the elephants in. I think one of the two elephants had literally lost it's mind. It kept doing the same action over and over and over again. It was a true shame to see such an amazing animal housed in such a despicable place. I hand't thought about this until recently when I visited Ueno zoo in Tokyo. The elephants there had much more room to roam and seemed happy and well cared for. 


Number 4: Foreigner Treatment


Korea was once aptly named the hermit kingdom. A lot has changed since that name was first given. People are becoming more aware of the world around them and often more accepting of the things it offers. Yet there is still a lingering wonder in the hearts and minds of many Korean folks about foreigners and foreign cultures. Now before I start this one let me drop a disclaimer. Nearly all of the folks I met in Korea were wonderful people. They'd help when they could, tried to practice their English and perhaps even buy you a dinner. But in every bunch there's always bound to be a few bad bananas. This section is about these folks and ideas.

blatant racism in my classes textbook? Or harmless cartoons depicting facts?

Someone once mentioned foreigner fever before I came to Korea. For along time it was rather rare to see western foreigners in Korea. Even to this day it can be rare to see someone away from the major cities or military bases that is western. This can lead to a lot of stares, as if you were some interesting being from outer space. It can be kind of cool sometimes but other times you just have to wonder what the hell they're staring at and thinking. Some of the more verbose characters out there will come up to you and practice English and tell you how handsome/beautiful you are and that you look like such and such celebrity. This can also be fun sometimes but if you hear the same thing enough times it looses its luster quick. One friend of mine was always stopped by large groups of young men and told how handsome he was. He said he loved the attention but was upset that it was all men who said it. Which leads me to my next point...

gay Alen in Wonderland comic

Apparently there are no homosexuals in Korea. It would be utterly unrealistic to think there are homosexuals there... unless they are part-time K-pop girl lesbians. That could be okay. Hopefully you've picked up on the sarcasm but if you haven't let it be known homosexuality isn't an accepted way of life in Korea. Rather than acknowledge that it is out there it's simply swept under a cultural taboo rug and forgotten about. Of course it does exist, and people prefer just not to acknowledge it. (once again this isn't everyone!)

Drunk and racist.
Xenophobia is the irrational or unreasonable fear of that which is perceived to be foreign or strange

This lovely lady above happened to be one of the most outwardly racist folk myself and others had the displeasure of happening upon. we were a group of about 30 foreigners meeting up to go on a boat ride together when this random lady shows up and starts saying, "Go home Yankees !" (which was incredibly humorous considering more than half of us were not from the USA  and none of us played baseball for New York) and throwing every curse word ,in Korean, she could think of at us. At first we tried not to acknowledge her but after awhile the temptation became too much. People began gently talking back to her, posing for pictures with her in the background and joking to lighten up the mood. Eventually, between sips of Makgoelli (막걸리), she finally cracked a smile and laughed with us too. 

For some children this is their first glimpse at other cultures.

The last thing I'm going to mention is be very careful of your employer (especially if you work in an English school). You can find horror stories written all over the internet depicting the hell some folks went through. As for myself I learned one very important thing. Contracts don't have the same status as they do in the west. In the end I lost a few thousand dollars to my former bosses who refused to pay me before and after I had left the country. After going through all the steps of filing a petition with the Korean Government and joining in on a lawsuit with my former Korean coworkers he filed for bankruptcy and no one got anything. In total he saved nearly 30 thousand dollars through unethical business practices. From listening to others in my same city this is still a widespread problem although the government has been taking steps to protect foreign workers. If you ever find yourself in a sub par situation don't make the same mistake I did. DO NOT HESITATE to utilize the services available to you. For more information you can check out http://www.moel.go.kr/english/main.jsp .

I included this section to give people wishing to travel to Korea a heads up on what they may expect. As I stated earlier the majority of people you meet will be amazing, kind-hearted people. As time continues its march into the future I think things will/are changing for the better. 

Number 3: The Streets Paved with Spit

 After seeing the streets and sidewalks in Korea you will no longer have to wonder why taking shoes off inside is so common. Walking, especially at night, is like stepping through a mine field. There's spit, leaflets thrown on the ground as advertising, occasional piles of fresh puke, random dung droppings of dogs whose owners are assholes, and if you're lucky a stream of urine crossing your path from an old man too lazy to find a bathroom nearby. The streets of Korea can be FILTHY!


On weekends in Busan the popular areas for night life will be littered with advertisements, spit, cigarette butts, puke and god knows what else. Though by mid morning it will all be cleaned up and ready for the next nights barrage.


 Trash from businesses is also left on the street for pickup by their sanitation services. Though some people are a bit antsy to get it out of their businesses and put it out a day or two early. Stray animals will also find a way to tear them open, eat what they can and spread out the rest until someone comes and stops them. 


Yellow dust, from China, also comes in once a year. This shit is disgusting. The air will be filled with it. It looks like a sandstorm/smog storm. It will linger for a bit then settle or move on. While I was there we had a rainstorm during the yellow dust season and the picture above shows what it left behind. This dust was everywhere. All the gutters were filled with it. Although it isn't something that can be avoided it is definitely something to be aware of. You shouldn't leave your windows open or a fine coat of this nasty stuff will coat everything. 

If all else fails just throw your junk in an alley!

Lastly it can be nearly impossible to find a trash can outside. So the random piles of trash waiting to be picked up can be a godsend if you've just finished your ice cream and don't want to carry the wrapper with you. Trash is often discarded on benches, sidewalks or anywhere else that is convenient at the time. Eventually someone will clean it, take it to be recycled or throw it away. Overall I didn't like the logic of the no public trashcan policy.

Note: At all large apartment buildings they have an area for trash and recycled goods. This system is fantastic. Although the security at my building could be recycling Nazi's (what do you mean I cant put this clear glass bottle with the brown glass bottle?!) they have it down to an art form. At my building recyclable goods could be put out once a week and trash could be taken out anytime.




Number 2: Bathrooms  (화장실 )

Washrooms, toilets, bathrooms and restrooms whatever you call them we all use them. Some are nicer than others but in Korea it's nearly always a game of Russian Roulette. Outside of the smells that seem to be constantly emitted by them (especially during the summer) bathrooms in Korea aren't usually a desirable experience. If you're in the vicinity of a nice shopping mall or newer buildings they can actually be quite lovely. The imported Japanese toilets will warm your buns, make sounds, clean your bum and even deodorize! The usual places you'll need to go though might not be up to par.

Obviously designed by the brightest of minds
Sometimes it seems that the person who designed the bath room was drunk. Urinals will be places incredibly close together, placed on either side of a sink, or will be inaccessible to handicapped folks. Also due to the drinking habits it isn't uncommon to see them filled with vomit (toilets, urinals and squatters alike) if their nearby restaurants. I can't speak for Seoul but in Busan and nearby areas bathrooms were used by all businesses on the floor they were located. If the building didn't have a hired cleaning staff the cleaning of the restrooms was left up to the business owners. This could lead to the toilets never being cleaned due to the fact no one wanted to take responsibility for them.

Still not sure how to fucking use these things
The squatter toilets (pictured above) was a locally hated by all guys who direly needed to drop a duece. It is incredibly inconvenient, many are installed in weird ways and you're never sure if it's safe to keep your pants on or take them off. Generally when these were found we'd have to hold it until something that could be sat on was found in the vicinity. These old style toilets can be found throughout Asia and are generally hated by all foreigners I've asked.

Some places are generally decent. If you've got to go subway/rail stations and shopping malls are a good bet.

A final note that was told to me on my first day was you should always carry toilet paper with you as well. There were many times friends of mine hadn't heard this advice and had nothing to wipe with after rocking the thunder dome. As stated before some bathrooms aren't "claimed" by anyone therefore no one will stock the bathrooms with TP (though some establishments have TP hanging near the exit closest to the bathroom). Always be prepared!

Number 1: Scooters

During my time in Korea there was always one thing I was terrified of. Scooters. I find it a bit ironic now due to the fact my current mode of transportation is indeed a scooter. Now, these folks are fucking crazy. I've seen scooters loaded down with three or four people hauling ass down the streets. I've seen delivery drivers on scooters go a smooth 45kph on the sidewalk. And I've seen a scooter plow into an old man crossing the crosswalk causing him to break his leg and lay in the intersection howling in pain.

Hey why don't we just flip a u-turn at this busy intersection? Fuck it! (true story)

Scooters are a very efficient mode of transportation but their drivers can be a bit dangerous. I was almost hit several times during my stay and learned to always keep an eye out for them.

We didn't start the fire
Also during my stay the law on scooters wasn't clearly established. A few of my friends had scooters and didn't need a license to use them. They were able to drive on either the sidewalk or the street though I heard that has been changed. Regardless if you find yourself walking the streets of Korea always keep an eye and an ear out for scooters!


Well this is the conclusion of my list! I hope you enjoyed your time here and feel free to disagree, argue  with or post your own experiences! Thanks for reading!

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Top 6: South Korea

This week I'll be welcoming you back to the land of Kimchi, soju and plastic surgery epidemics. That's right I'm talking about the bounteous country South Korea! I'm going to highlight my top 6 (top 5 is too cliche and I'm too lazy for top 10) things I loved about Korea! So grab your note pad, some hot coco and enjoy the show!



Number 6: The Ease of Travel

No matter where you are traveling it will be a breeze to travel in Korea. You say you live in Busan and want to take a day trip to Seoul? No problem! Hop on the early KTX (bullet train) and in just under 4 hours you're there! Need a cheap lift from the rural life to the city? Hop on the bus! Need to get from one end of Seoul to the other? The subway has what you need! Korea has one of the best and cheapest mass transportation systems I've ever had the pleasure of enjoying. In my time there I took buses, planes, boats and trains with little or no problems (with the exception of getting lost in Seoul once...). Now, many of you may worry how you will navigate through these options. The good news is that most signs are written in Korean, English and Chinese/Japanese. So if you can read one of these languages you're in good shape!

You can't buy excitement like this.

My favorite was the KTX. It hauls ass through the countryside getting you from Busan to Seoul pretty quickly. The first time I went to Seoul (around New Years) there weren't any seats available so we had to stand for most of the trip. But, even then watching the world fly by outside was worth the trip.

Hauling ass on the KTX

On a regular day it's pretty easy to get a seat (get one early if you plan on traveling during major holidays) and they are comfy enough to sleep in! You can also take regular trains, which are only a little cheaper, though they slug along at a comfortable pace they are rather aged and can be uncomfortable (especially on a 5+ hour ride home from partying in Seoul).

Waiting in line to get a KTX ticket. The machines in the back can also be used to purchase tickets.

My second choice would be the subway. For the love of god they are wildly entertaining places to use for travel. I can honestly say all walks of life have transpired in front of my naive American eyes while journeying through the subways of Korea; young lovers, old lovers, beggars, millionaires and everyone in between will use the subway at some point. 

The Korean who developed the Flux capacitor 

I can't tell if he loves or hates animals. EVERYTHING he was wearing was made from some type of animal.

If you can manage I'd recommend the running of the subway goers. What's that you ask? It's basically a herd, maybe a mob, of people running to catch the subway train before it departs the station. Be careful of the Ajimas (Sp?) they will not hesitate to hit, push or yell at you in an insane manner to get onto the train!

Lost in Seoul


There's also one more thing to mention when using the subways get an electronic pass. You can find these at just about every convenience store within proximity of the subway. You can load them up using machines at the stations and they will save you tons of time you'd otherwise spend digging for change. In many places these passes can be used on buses and trains too! Bee Yaw!
Sweet hair dude!

Subway romance

My least favorite form of travel would have to be buses. There is nothing explicitly wrong with them (except the city bus drivers are fucking crazy and drive like alcoholics riding the highway to hell). I'm reminded of the time when my girlfriend came to visit me and the driver didn't even fully stop to let us off the bus (Tuck and Roll! Tuck and ROLL!)

bus depot in Gimhae

 I also get motion sickness while on buses so this may influence my opinion, though there were plenty of folks who would rather take the bus than anything else. This will be your cheapest form of transportation by far. The long range buses are much more comfortable and the drivers drive in a much more hospitable fashion. Basically what I want to say is this: If you can, take the subway in the city.

Luckiest ticket I ever bought



Number 5: Technology of the Future

Now you can probably guess where this is going. Asia= impressive technology. And in a way you are indeed correct. Korea can be a technological play land, fraught with glimpses into the future of the modern world. You can order your groceries from your fridge, cell phone stores are conveniently located on just about every block (no joke), building facades tantalize street dwellers with pictures or adverts and every apartment has a video camera next to the door so you can see who rung you at 3 in the morning.

mall in Busan

As mentioned before the electronic subway cards were lovely in and of themselves and Korea seems to be trying ever-harder to push itself to the front of the technological world. The prices for cellphones and their plans are also relatively cheap (in comparison to the USA) which stems from the fact that it's a rather small market and even smaller country. It's much easier to cover a country roughly the size of Utah than the entire continental US.


I'm sorry my photo's of the technology are a bit lacking in substance!


Number 4: Cheap Booze, Great Service, and Freebies


No the BJ is not a freebie


One of the best things about Asia in general is no tipping. I know there are many of you who live on tips and I respect that. When I'm in the States I have always tried to keep that in mind, but life is lovely without tipping. In my time in Korea I tipped two people, both taxi drivers (once because my friend puked on the side of the car... and the driver hadn't noticed yet. Sorry random taxi man).

Spicy delicious amazing chicken

Now you may think the service would suffer due to this... and you'd be wrong. At nearly every place the service was great. From bars, to clubs, to restaurants and beyond the staff were generally friendly, helpful and kind.




The beer was lackluster though. If it weren't for the quantity given it would be beer purgatory. For $3-5 you get a nice frosty brew about the size of an English pint. As stated before it's no craft brew but it's manageable. Also if you want to spend a few extra bucks you can pick up imported beer (from all over the globe) but they can add up quickly! I've already talked about soju before but it mixes well with the Korean beer and you should give it a shot at least once.

just another Thursday night

Soju dreams

If you find yourself thirsty in Seoul I would highly recommend finding and going to Craftworks Taphouse & Bistro. Hands down they had the best beer in Korea!




When you go to a Korean BBQ restaurant be ready for your table to be covered in plates. Along with your meal come many free items such as onions or leaves to wrap your meat in. I believe most folks find the onions extra delectable so load up on those! If you run out they'll more than likely bring more too!



Finally the spicy, spicy, lovely, oh so incredibly fucking great spicy food is at your fingertips 24/7. The Korean folks LOVE their hot/spicy foods. Now, this isn't Hispanic food spicy, not even Indian curry spicy... this is flaming hot, burning the inside of your mouth and stomach spicy! Before Korea I wasn't a big fan of spicy foods. Though after my time there I find myself craving them all the time! I had countless meals crying my eyes out due to the level of spiciness! Tears of pure joy.

Power food!


Number 3: All the Pretty Flashing Lights

Entertainment is around every corner in Korea. Most of the population reside within cities which offer a plethora of entertainment activities. Of course they have "traditional" things such as drinking the night away and awaking on a park bench hurling up soju from the night before. But, this is not your only option by far!



Arcades! Video game rooms/arcades pop up every now and again on most trips through the cities. some are rather large and are really popular with young and middle aged alike. I wouldn't recommend dueling one of the seasoned natives on any game though. For many folks this is a pastime they have spent countless hours doing. Also some of these places offer a member card which allows you to pay a small fee (usually by the hour) to play any game you want for free (no need to carry around all that clunky change Yipee!).

4d Ride
Time Crisis grand champion

Digital Golf. I'll be the first to tell you that I'm no Tiger Woods but I do enjoy a lazy round of golf now and again. I'd prefer to play outside but why do that when you can play inside? Digital golf is another one of the things koreans are crazy about. For about $10-23 you can play 9-18 holes of golf with a few buddies and never leave the climate controlled room (great for  freezing balls cold, titillatingly hot or rainy days). You can also bring in your own beer or food. Or they can order take out food for you. along with the room you also get a few complimentary goodies, usually biscuits, cookies, coffee or tea.

Need to become a beefcake? No worries gyms are also all over the place. Some are small one room affairs, others are $100+ monthly fee mistresses waiting for you to come back and pound the weights on the daily. Regardless of what you choose you can't go wrong with a little exercise to counter the effects of beer/soju and bar snack intake.

BEEEFCAAAKKEE!!

Batting cages. We all know what they are. Once and awhile we all want to take a bat and swing at some shit. These are sometimes tucked away in small corners of the city so keep an eye out for them. Also Karaoke and DVD rooms are all over the place. It would appear Koreans love to sing. Sometimes they are brilliant singers and well... other times they sound like banshees from hell. Regardless a trip or stay in Korea can't be complete without at least one night at a Norebang (Karaoke room).

Karaoke

If you're looking for a little culture try one of the museums! Most are free to enter... YES, I SAID FREE! Many of the towns and cities have at least one historical site or museum and often enough they have something in English to help guide your wanderings through the history of the hermit kingdom. I'd personally highly recommend the Korean war museum in Seoul.


Gyeongbokgung




Gyeongbokgung


King Suro's tomb in Gimhae


Do you just want to throw your purses into a pile and dance it all out? No problem! Clubs are easily accessed especially in the larger cities. Be careful though there are some places which won't allow foreigners to enter (their too scared our devil good looks and silver tongues will impregnate their men and women alike!). Find a few Korean friends and this could possibly be rectified. Be prepared to rock your face off!

The Blue Monkey in Busan

Club Fix

Club fix. This girl was nearly naked by the time her boyfriend
 found her and took her off  the stage. Party on Korea!
 If none of these suit your fancy you can always check out a professional sports game or go to one of the millions of festivals they have! Do your research! Ask your friends and explore all you can!

LOTTE GIANTS!
Go Camping!




Oktober Fest!



Number 2: The Mountains are Calling will you Answer?

I can't deny it, I love nature. Her sexy slopes, giant peaks, whispering pines and trails that lead to spiritual ecstasy. Hiking also happens to be somewhat of a national pastime for Koreans. Every weekend you'll see Koreans dawned in trendy matching hiking gear heading to the nearest hills to hike the day away.

View from the hill near my apartment



 Being a naturally hilly place it's easy to stumble upon short hikes just about anywhere you go. There was one trail near my apartment that lead to a hill top pagoda and a beautiful view. Now my favorite hike was near Boemosa Temple just outside of Busan.



After viewing the temple grounds you can hike up the hill to the top when a fortified area once stood to guard against the Japanese . Geumjeongsan offers breathtaking views of the Natural Korean landscapes as well as stellar views of Busan.

Geumjeongsan

Geumjeongsan


Be aware there are many, if any, switchbacks on the trails here. Be prepared to hike up, up and up. Also bring plenty of water and grab a trail map for the longer hikes! You don't want to be stuck up there over night!

Busan!


Number 1: Smiling Faces and Beautiful Souls

Whether it was my students, coworkers, new friends (foreign or domestic) the people are what really made Korea great for me. Here are just a few of the faces that altered my life after my time in Korea. I wish I could go over every single one of them in detail but to save time here are just a few of those that stand out the most.


Here are some of my students. I had alternating classes throughout the week. Half of the week they would be with me, the other half with a Korean co-teacher. Throughout that time you really get to see each ones unique personality. Some you wish could be your own kids and others... I truly think anyone who wants to have kids one day should work with children at least once. It can be a major test of your patience but it will be an undeniably rewarding experience. Many of their names have faded from memory but the lessons I learned from them are priceless.

A few of my Korean co-teachers make me look like a ladies man on my last night in Korea. They are amazing people and I'm glad I had the good fortune to meet them. Lovely, lovely, Lovely ladies.



This is the group that came to be known as the Gimhae massive. It consisted of folks from the USA, UK and South Africa. My time wouldn't have been remotely as enjoyable as it was without these folks. Each one bringing something special to the group which added flair a flavor to every trip. Even though many of us are spread back out across the globe I wish them nothing but luck in their future endeavors and still continue to keep in contact with quite a few of them. Good people (even the Redcoats...)


This was the owner of the gym I went to. We would often have conversations in English. He used to be a bodybuilder in Korea and is still incredibly strong.


This handsome gent was one of my best friends in Korea. His English name was Skye and he is one of the better guys I've ever happened upon in my life. 




Almost everyday I'd eat Hansot for lunch. These two are the owners of the store I'd go to. Over the course of a year we became pretty friendly and I was sad to say goodbye to their ever-smiling faces and broken English.


One of the most kind men I've ever met at home or abroad had to be Mr. Ha from Busan. On my last trek up to Boemosa I decided to hike the long trail back into Busan. Along the way I stopped to take a breather and check my map. This man just came up to me and started speaking English. Come to find out he had spent a little over 4 years in America in the 1970's. He was chosen with a dozen or so other people to come to America to learn about agriculture. As we travelled he told me of his times in America, most of them were rather funny which is no easy feat for a second language speaker. He also told me of his childhood after the Korean war. Life was very tough in the hermit kingdom for quite some time. Everyday, rain or shine, he would hike up the mountain to gather water from a Buddhist healing spring for his father (this was a 4 mile round trip) who was ill. After we descended from the mountain (on a trail I had no idea was there) he bought me dinner even though I had offered to pay he refused and simply thanked me for my company. Wherever this guy may be I hope nothing but the best of all possible outcomes for him!








Now this man was a character. He worked at the convenience store below my apartment. He was generally drunk and talkative. We'd often buy beers for each other and try to chit chat. He hoped to open up a martial arts school in the future. He was incredibly proud of his children and even called his daughter (who also happened to be drinking) to chat with me in English. Overall this was one of the people I was most sad to say good bye to.


G-Sac (Gimhae Semi-Athletic Club) This group met up nearly every Sunday to play sports. Whether it was soccer, Frisbee golf, Ultimate Nerf/Frisbee the competition was always fierce. Someone was once stabbed by a trident. 


Stay tuned for my next topic THE BOTTOM SIX OF KOREA. You have to take the good with the bad...