Traveling Back in Time: The Andong Folk Museum

One of my first adventures outside of Busan and Gimhae was to the city of Andong. Andong is a city of about 170,000 souls located in the Gyeongsangbuk-do province and is widely known for preserving the cultural heritage of Korea. I was asked by a coworker/friend to accompany him on the journey. With nothing else to do and the promise of seeing some unique things I decided it was a good plan of action. We left early in the morning and took the rail to the train station. It was to be my first time riding the KTX (the Korean bullet train). We were both lively souls before getting on the train and were singing Harry Belafonte's smash hit "Banana Boat Song (Day-O)" to the puzzled looks of Koreans passing by. The ride wasn't more than two hours which passed quickly by as the train flew through the countryside. We arrived at the station and began looking for our first place to visit, The Andong Folk museum. Well as things would have it we got off on the wrong stop. We ended up walking a little over three miles through the city until we reached an area we could catch a cab. At one point along our trek we passed by two Korean children who emphatically kept repeating "get some!" until we had passed them. Along the way we viewed spectacular murals lining the main street depicting traditional Korean games.

I thought it was an interesting way to liven up a rather typical Korean roadway. Though I'm still am not quite sure what this game was about but i think it had something to do with one of the men on the poles falling off.

Eventually we finally arrived at the museum. This museum consists of two parts: an indoor exhibit portraying the lives of Koreans during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897) and an outdoor portion depicting houses and buildings of roughly the same time period. It was a delightfully entertaining way to explore a culture and time now long since passed.

 ^one of the statues outside the museums entrance^

Inside the museum there was information on everything from child rearing, cooking, weddings, traditional clothing, Confucianism and other spiritual practices. Two of the most interesting things I learned were as follows: The rather abundant use of hemp for making ropes and clothing and the ritual of praying to phallic rocks by pregnant women wishing to have a boy. To this day both of these activities are still practiced, hemp fields abound in the countrysides of Korea, though the latter being less used in modern times.

^hemp and other important plants^

^worshiping the mighty rock phallus^

The next leg of the museum led us back outdoors to view what life had looked like for village people during this time. The entrance to this portion of the museum was guarded by giant totem pole like statues. I never received the full explanation of this structures but the short English explanation said they were to guard against evil/bad spirits entering villages. With their fierce faces and their height of giant proportions I think they could work! 

        ^giant totem of doom^

This lovely folk village was build alongside a man-made reservoir helping to dam the Nakdong River. It adds a striking contrast when viewed from the upper parts of the village. 

        ^looking from the past into the future^

As we meandered through the village I was stricken with the feeling of being one of the last people on Earth... Who just happened to travel back in time. The buildings were only meant to be informative and without people inhabiting them it added a certain level of creepiness to them. It was as if they were the remnants of some ghost town in old Korea.  Of course there were a few other tourists exploring but we hardly ever crossed paths. 

   ^ghost town status^

We saw the old thatch roofed houses, a water-wheel used for milling and small government buildings. The larger of the buildings always used more expensive materials such as a lumber facades, masonry and tiled roofs. 

    ^water wheel^

    ^the expensive lumber facade^

    ^tiled roofs^ 

Eventually there was a break from the "lower village" into the "upper village" I can't be certain (due to the complete lack of informative signs) but I think it was meant to signify one of two things; the lives of the average people in comparison to the elite of society or the evolution of architecture during the Joseon Dynasty. The entrance to the upper village was heavily fortified by a large gate. There were also many places in which soldiers of the past could stand guard without being seen from the outside.

     ^lone monk outside the walls leading to the upper gate ^

      ^The view from the guard tower. Two Korean lovers embrace each other as twilight approaches^


Inside of the wall there was a guard tower, a garden, and other buildings of better quality. We even happened upon the what appeared to be the house of a governor or important government official.

   ^house of the boss^

Eventually we passed the village only to wander into the mountains to find an old burial mound. In Korea they often dig a shallow hole, place the body in and then cover it with a large mound of dirt. It is comparable to graves in America with one rather noticeable difference; where our graves are flat theirs are mounds. Sometimes these mounds are little bumps which are hardly noticeable; though other times, especially for historic figures such as kings, they are huge mounds that could be considered hills. From there we found the entrance to a newly paved road leading back into the city.

     ^burial mound^

We decided it was time to head back to the village entrance and eventually back to Andong.
 Once we arrived at the bottom of the hill we decided to travel across the reservoir using "Moonlight bridge." It is a beautiful bridge to view at night.

    ^the view at dusk from the folk village^

   ^bridge pagoda^

 Once we reached the other side it was already dark. And of course there were no taxis to be taken. So again we trekked back into Andong city. By this time my feet were killing me and my stomach was ready for all the kimchi and beer it could hold. Before entering the city limits we were able to view the city scape at night. Even with all the love hotels lighting up the night sky it was still a lovely view.

   ^The more fancily lit places are love hotels. It ain't called AnDONG for nothing^

We finally reached the city and found a chicken joint. It was located near the top floor of a multistory building which lacked sufficient lighting in the stairwell and at one point had a blockage of rubbish blockading the path upwards. Once inside we indulged in fried chicken and beer. In the booth in front of us was a table of young college age Koreans. Actually the entire place was filled with Koreans but this group just happened to be within range. I dared William to try and hit on one of the women at the table thinking he wouldn't possibly do it. The wager was 1,000 won ($1 USD). Low and behold he finally got the courage up (after nearly an entire pitcher of beer). He turns around, taps one on the shoulder and speaks poor Korean to them. What did he say? It was something along the lines of "You and me. Hotel now." Well, it didn't work. Actually they broke out in awkward laugh and she politely said no. The rest of the evening we continued to get sideways glances from them and their friends.

     ^Indiana Will^

After the meal and beer it was time to head back to the hotel to crash. The next day we were to set out on the next adventure to Teogye's Confucian School.  

The Journey to the Land of Kimchi and Soju

Like art, adventures have to start somewhere. Mine started in the Reno International airport. After a few days of partying with friends and family I was finally taking the leap into the unknown. I had two GIANT brown bags, a huge backpack and a small camera case. I was undeniably worn out from the past few days of boozing at going away parties. The recruiting company that hired me had taken care of all the flight arrangements and of course they were the cheapest possible. My first flight was sending me to Tuscon, AZ then to LA. Unfortunately this plane had broken down and only 100 of the 130 passengers were able to fly on a smaller plane. I was not selected to be one of these people. I had a slight argument with the staff, who seemed more upset than the passengers about the delay. After telling them I was to catch an international flight that evening they said my best bet was to get a flight voucher and find another airline. I called my parents, who were still at the airport. Luckily, they were able to help me purchase another ticket; a direct flight to LA.

 I had to return back upstairs and claim a flight voucher from the previous airline and run back downstairs to grab my bags from the only saintly soul working at that airline. After checking in on the other airline I left my passport at the table causing me to momentarily panic as I approached the security gate. What a day to quit drinking eh? Thank goodness it was still in the place where I had left it. Giving my parents one last hug before I stepped through the gate and started my journey.

After arriving in LA I had to catch a shuttle van to drop me off at the Korean embassy, about a 35 minute ride. A few weeks earlier I had mailed my passport to them to get a nifty Work Visa sticker. Now, of course American airports don't have storage lockers so me, my two huge bags, giant backpack and camera bag were all traveling in this van with 7 other people, a tight fit for sure. I had the good fortune of having a humorous driver who whistled Beatles songs, cracked jokes and was more-than-helpful in arranging another van to pick me up. Upon entering the hallowed walls of the embassy was when I had my first observation about Korean folk... Korean women love high heel shoes. High heels and designer bags were the standard for every Korean woman who entered. I set my bags in the waiting area got in line and 5 minutes later had a brand spanking new Visa for Korea. Then I realized I had four hours to wait for the next van. I decided to take a nap. I can only imagine what the security guards, immigration staff, and other visitors to the embassy thought seeing me cuddle up with my two giant bags napping in the lobby.

After about 2 hours the embassy was getting ready to close up for the day so I stumbled outside, set my bags near the corner where I was to be picked up and people watched. People of all ages, ethinicities, fashion styles and distinct walks passed by. Some would look, other said hello and some would just ignore me. It was the last time in over a year that I would be in the midst of such diversity (more on this later). I finally gathered my bearings and realized I was sitting near the corner of New Hampshire Ave. and Wilshire. The world the passerby's inhabited was all to familiar for them. Though, for me... being from a less urbanized area it was an urban jungle. Movement is to a city as water is to a fish. The cars, bikes, swooshing legs, the click-clack of high heels, the sounds of car horns and motorcycle exhaust blending together to create a new age sound. The sound of the 21st century marching slowly forward.

 In the rush of the day I seemed to be the only one taking everything in. The only one stepping outside the daily grind. I saw the lush green, well watered, grasses splash up against the concrete foundations of the buildings around me. The flawless green flow of nature reaching out its hand to shake with ashy gray creations sprung from loin's of mans mind. Eventually another van picked me up and took me back to the airport. It was time for my journey to continue.

After going through the ridiculous American airport security regimen it was time to jump the big puddle. I don't recall much about the plane ride. I slept for about 10 of the 12.5 hours and slept right through my dinner. I'm not gonna lie I was a little upset at missing my chance at a chicken dinner. One of my seat mates was kind enough to chit-chat in the final hour of our flight. He was an airline steward for China Air and his English was superb. We chatted about his job, the job awaiting me and then finally got to the good stuff, flight attendants of the female kind. He told me that the prettiest ones flew for Japanese and Korean airlines and only worked with the first class customers. He told me a story of how one of his coworkers for China Air was picked up by a Korean pop star only to be taken to a karaoke where this gentleman blathered on about his women problems. Good first date if you're a pop star I suppose. After the flight we parted ways back onto our own stages called life. To this day I still wonder if my single serving friends (my seat mates) jumped over me while I slept or had iron bladders.

We arrived just before dawn in the land of Kimchi and I had about a 5 hour layover in Seoul. After going downstairs into the lobby I decided to break out some of my newly exchanged Won (currency of Korea) and buy something. So what was my first purchase in Korea? A coffee and a pack of smokes. An eclectic mix I know.

           ^Dawn in Seoul^

A few hours later I found myself landing in Gimhae, South Korea. I got off the plane, grabbed my bags and was expecting someone to be there waiting for me. Alas, no one was there. A few cab drivers attempted to get my fair but I had no idea where I was going. Finally about 30 minutes later a western foreigner and my new boss finally showed up to pick me up. After another 20 minutes of driving we arrived at a hotel. I was to stay in a hotel for a few days until the guy I was replacing left the country. Now, we all have the typical version of American Hotels in our head at this point ... this was not your typical hotel. It was a love hotel.

 ^Busan airport^

Basically, a place for couples to go and have sex. Many people live with their parents until they are married so establishments such as these make it easy for them get jiggy with it. Also sometimes married couples, with children, who live in a small apartment need some place a little more private to go as well. They are also frequented by folks who step outside of marriage to jump on it. With the vast number of these places I think it's a fair assumption that Korea is down with OPP.

 ^an example of a love hotel. They aren't always this flashy, but why not get down to biz under a neon moon?^

My room was quaint and would suffice for the few days I would have to stay there. I was definitely not sleeping underneath the covers of the bed though! A few hours later I opted to shadow my job. Being jet lagged I honestly can't remember one thing about this. Later, after work my new coworkers stopped by my room but I had finally reached the crash point. I slept from about 7pm to 6am. It was sleep nearly worthy of being called a coma.

I awoke to an odd sound. The sound of pleasure being had in the room next door. The loud moans of a man, though I did not hear a peep from a woman's mouth. I suppose it was an interesting alarm clock. I got up and wandered into the restroom where I was going to throw some trash into the can. It was upside down so I flipped it over. Then... I was hit with the most god awful stenches I have ever had the disagreeable experience of having. A used ladies pad, perhaps days, weeks, years, millennium's old had been lying in wait for the nostril attack. Well I vomited and promised myself never to turn over a rubbage bin that was overturned ever again.

Later in the day, it being a Saturday so I didn't have work, I had the privilege of seeing one of the majestic sights known to humanity. As I exited my room to procure some food down the street another door at the end of the hallway opened. I was greeted by the eyes of a woman who looked rather ashamed to see someone else in the hallway. Then behind her another woman left the room with the same look written all over her face. My interest had now been peaked. Then a man left the room. As he saw me gazing in wide-eyed wonder he began shaking his head up and down and let out a million and a half dollar smile. He didn't say anything but I would like to assume that in his thoughts he looked at me and thought, "Yes, you foreign mother fucker you did just see two women leave this room. I am indeed a boss playa."

That final note brings to me the end of my story of traveling to Korea. Stay tuned for further adventures in the land of Kimchi and Soju and as well as those to come from here, the land of Hello Kitty and the Samurai (not in any specific order).

Weekend get away part 2

The next day was all about seeing and doing new things. The first stop was Nakijin castle ruins. 

One of my goals for this year is to see all of the world heritage sites in Okinawa. And like if someone offered me a million dollars + Eva Mendez for an evening or two... this was an opportunity I simply couldn't pass up. 

Nakijin Castle ruins is the former site of one of the three Ryukyu kingdoms that used to reign over the main island of Okinawa. It was constructed in the latter part of the 1200's and was the epicenter of the Hokuzan community (the northernmost kingdom) until all three kingdoms were eventually united. 

Besides being the northernmost castle ruin it is also the biggest surviving ruin. During WW2 many of the islands historical sites were decimated by the fighting between the United States and Japan. Even to this day many of the battle scars remain. For example, bullet holes can be found on aged buildings and old bombs that never detonated are discovered during construction at least once a month. To have such a large structure survive with minimal repairs is quite a feat of construction. 

Walking through the ruins is like traveling back in time. The other sites I've visited are deeply tucked into the urban landscape but this place is surrounded by jungle on all sides. It's a place with a phenomenal view of the ocean and the solitude of a large jungle tree. 

As you enter the inner parts of the castle walls you have to let your imagination take flight; there's really not much there. Any buildings that once stood above ground are gone. All that remains are the heavy stone walls and old foundations. Nonetheless, it still gives a perspective on life on Okinawa before the Japanese controlled it. 

One thing I found incredibly interesting was a shrine built for one of the old gods of the Okinawan people. Before the Shinto religion was standardized in Okinawa they believed mainly in ancestor worship along with acknowledging relationships between life, death, spirits and gods of the natural world. The following Shrine was dedicated to a fire god/spirit: 

People would enter to pray and leave gifts of fresh foods or other goods in hopes of appeasing the spirit called upon. Another noteworthy tidbit of knowledge is that women, not men, held a higher position in the original Ryukyuan religion. They had priestess/queens called "noro" to interpret signs, give advice, speak with spirits and lead the community. As time continued they lost their ruling capacity but their spiritual power was unquestionable. Even today Noro can be found in certain areas of Okinawa. 

Noro^

Noro^

Overall I have been surprised at how superstitious the Japanese are, especially the Okinawans. Their culture is a harmony between the old thoughts and ways and the lightning fast speed of the 21st century. This weekend trip allowed me to see both sides and increased my appreciation of their culture as well as my own. 

From there we left to find lunch. My lovely girlfriend found a popular posh pizza joint overlooking Nago and we set off I that direction. After driving around for 20 or so more minutes longer than expected we found "Pizza in the Sky." Let me tell you... It was worth the wait! 

They have a stunning view of the ocean, the food is delicious and not too hard on the old wallet. It's a place I would highly recommend. After finishing our lunch we, and our food babies, made the long drive back home with full bellies and big smiles. Another good weekend in the books. 

Weekend get away part 1

So I had been planning a nice retreat to the northern realm of Okinawa with the girlfriend for about a month. I decided on the small city of Motobu. 

It wasn't my first time going to this region of the island paradise but there were a few sites I wanted to see along the way. We started off the 2 hour drive around 330pm heading North on highway 58 which for the most part coddles the shoreline until Motobu. Along the way the little woman and I chatted about life, music and future plans until I found a place just North of Nago to take in a view of the sea. 

 The sun was slowly making its long decent into the sea, the waves were calm and we were able to steal a few quiet moments to ourselves. Watching the waves lap the shore one can't help but wonder where these waters have been before. Perhaps they were sailed upon or drank by my ancestors in some distant point in time and space; Maybe they coursed through the veins of the ancient lizard beasts that once ruled the globe; or perhaps they've just ran through their cycle endlessly since before time was counted. Regardless it's always a welcome sight. 

Nearby a father, son and family dog were fishing. The son watching his father, the father watching the ocean and the dog keeping a close eye on both of them. It seemed like a nice father-son-dog day trip for them as well. 

From there it was another 40 minutes to the hotel. The Motobu Green Park and Golf Course; a cozy little resort tucked away in the hills of Motobu. It was nothing spectacular but it offered a quiet place, decent food and a swimming pool.

We arrived just as the sun was setting and did the typical thing all hotel dwellers do once they arrive...search the room like you're looking for pirates hidden booty. No treasure was found but I was able to take a decent shot of the rooms view before the sun disappeared for the night. 

After about 35 minutes of down time we were both starving so we headed downstairs to the diner. I made the slight mistake of ordering the beef. It was delicious but not quite as good as my girlfriend's pork. Which, was absolutely fantastic. The food was served in yaki-niku (think BBQ that you cook by yourself... Without BBQ sauce) with foods ranging from sashimi to rice. 

Beef^

Pork^

After the meal it was time for a night swim in the hotel pool. We arrived 25 minutes or so before closing and were able to enjoy the entire pool by ourselves.   We swam underneath the stars, both our bodies floating in the cool tranquil water enjoying the fruits life has given us. But alas relaxation is best enjoyed sparsely. And so we raced. I proved the better at freestyle but was handed my ass in both the back and breast stroke. I guess that's what you get when you grow up in a desert. 

After that it was time to join the company of Morpheus (not the one from the Matrix) and prepare for the next days activities. 

Upon leaving I did notice something I hadn't seen before though. In the desk drawer where you usually find a bible there was something else along with it. It's always nice to have a choice... 

Beomeosa Temple

Well I'm back again and it's time to talk about one of my favorite places, Beomeosa temple near Busan, South Korea. 

This temple was originally built about 1,300 years ago near the summit of Mt. Guemjeongsan. The monks that originally inhabited these parts claimed there was a well on the mountain with gold water. The original structure was destroyed by the Japanese in an invasion in 1592 but the structure that stands today was renovated in 1713. 

Since that time it has come to be a rather popular tourist destination. It's a place where Buddhist come to pray, monks come to train and tourists come to linger in a time distant from today's fast pace of life. 

The temple has been constructed beautifully and the artwork that adorns it is amazingly complex. I can't imagine how much time was spent on painting alone! 

You can easily spend an hour wandering around the temple grounds and sucking in the tranquil atmosphere. Beyond the temple is the summit of the mountain. It's a nice hike with quite a view once you reach the top. The first time I did this hike was fresh off the plane and could barely handle Korean Hiking. In America many of our trails use switch-backs or gradually ascend... In Korea it's straight up the mountain. So basically after the first time my legs ached, my pride hurt but my soul was alive with the thrill of a new adventure. 

The final time I hiked was a month or so before I was set to leave Korea. I took a different route and nearly would have had to find my own way off the mountain at dusk if I hadn't met an incredibly kind 65 year old Korean man. He met me about 3/4 of the way through my hike and asked if we could travel together to share stories and the trail. 

He talked of his family and how he rarely saw his children these days. He spoke of his childhood days when he would traverse 2 miles a day up the steep slopes of the mountain (rain,sun, snow, hell or high water be damned) to fetch water for his sick father from a sacred Buddhist spring.

 He also spoke of his time spent in America nearly 50 years prior. He came to America as part of a group of Koreans learning Agriculture and culture after the Korean War. The details of his stories are now lost to time but the excitement which he conjured during our talks made me greatful for his company. Along the way down he showed me trails only known to the monks who inhabit the various small temples along the mountain. 

We finally made it to Busan just as the sun had set. He bought me dinner and then we parted ways. I'll pry never again see this man but the impression he left will last until the end of my days. Thanks Mr. 하!