Eisa: Drums for the Dead

Hi~~~~Ya! Hiiiiii~~~~~~EE~~~YA! 

(Sounds similar to the dubbed versions of old Bruce Lee films may help you imagine today's topic more vividly)

Life is full of many goodbyes; some are tragic, most are casual and a few are exceptional. How exceptional? Imagine powerful reverberations of beating drums, majestic flags flying high, exotic dance and myth-laden song all to wish ancestors a safe trip back to the afterlife. If you ever make a trip to Okinawa chances are you'll come across a unique musical performance known as Eisa (エイサー). It's a performance rooted in local myth, Buddhist beliefs and unbridled awesomeness. So what the hell is Eisa you ask? Don't fret I'm here to teach you! First, check out the [unfortunately poor quality] videos below!

No one can say for certain when and where Eisa actually came from. Although there are many believable stories, finding evidence of its origin has proven to be rather difficult. What is known is that it began as a Buddhist prayer dance on the final day of Obon. Obon is an annual celebration welcoming ancestors back to the world of the living for three days. Activities usually include a family reunion, cleaning of the ancestors graves and the burning of uchi-kabi (yellow cloth-like paper meant to serve as money in the afterlife) in front of the household altar. Different regions of Japan celebrate Obon at different times and the activities can vary from region to region. In Okinawa Obon (also known as Kyu-bon) is celebrated in the 7th month and 15th day of the lunar calendar. Groups of local youths called "Michi-Junee" would dance through the streets to say good bye to their ancestors and wish for the health and prosperity of the community. As the tradition has evolved it has become an essential cultural asset for Okinawa and its people.

Eisa Music can also be accompanied by Karate performances

Eisa is a multi-layered performance. Each performance consists of 5 specific roles and roughly 20-30 performers. The drummers (Teeku-uchi), flag people (Hata-gashiri), dancers (Tii-udui), music & song people (Jikata-Jiutee) and the jokers/buffoons (Sanaja, Chondaraa, Chooginaa, or Sanraa). Each Role is assigned a specific task during the performance and their role often reflects their experience as an Eisa performer.


The drummers.

The drummers are typically arranged by their size: The larger the drum, the harder you bang, the closer you are to the front

 These are the folks who get to bang in public all day and still receive praise for it. Traditionally these positions were filled by men only, but now women are accepted as well. The drum section uses 3 different drums all emitting a different sound that adds to the overall affect of Eisa. The drums, much like a fast-food menu, come in Large (a barrel type drum) called Odaiko, a medium size called shimedaiko and small the paarankuu.

Bad quality photo but you can still see the paarankuu drums

The Flag People

Everyone needs someone to throw their flag up from time to time; Eisa is no different. These folks hold up flags of varying size with the name of their Eisa group on it. Some flags are elaborate works of art weighing hundreds of pounds. These flags can also be very dangerous in the wind due to their hefty weight and top heavy nature.  During the Eisa performance the flag people lift the flag in conjunction with the rhythm of the drum beats.

Dancers

This role has traditionally been used to express the beauty of the feminine kind through hand movements. The women in this part of the production usually dawn traditional garb and wear these god awful wooden sandals that should be designated dangerous relics of a past age. They also move in unison with the music and add an enjoyable touch of the better-kind to a performance predominantly dominated by men.

Music and Song

These folks usually inhabit a stage and play the Sanshin (a three stringed instrument similar to a banjo) and have historically sung traditional Okinawan songs. Originally they would recite Buddhist prayers though as time has continued its pace into the future more contemporary themes have entered into the songs they sing.

The Jokers/Buffoons 

For me these fine folks are the most interesting aspects of Eisa to watch. With their wigs/bad ass hats and face paint you can't help to notice their presence as they lurk through the mob of Eisa performers. Their role is to help keep the drummers in line, replace lost drumsticks (it's hard to keep a hold on them when you're banging one out), and dance to make the performance a bit more humorous.

Modern Eisa has a much different place in society than its origin. Contemporary Eisa has become more athletic, females can also be drummers, and there are now Eisa clubs rather than ragtag groups of young locals. Now, another difference is the choice in songs to perform. Popular club songs as well as "Oki-pop" are now performed adding a special something to connect with the younger generations of people. The biggest event takes place on the 1st Sunday of August on Kokusai-Dori in Naha City. The event is called the "10,000 Eisa Dancers Parade" and is a good opportunity to sample the many styles of Eisa now in existence.  For more information on Eisa or Eisa events in Okinawa check out the following link:   http://www.okinawastory.jp/en/event/eisa_event2013/

So now... What do you think? Is Eisa your style? Do you know of any Eisa like performances in your area of the world? Leave a comment and let the sharing commence!

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Coming Back From Here: Reverse Culture Shock

If you never leave home you can never truly view your own culture clearly. Like a toilet, you can be comfortable while your buns relax upon your own familiar seat but, you probably don't know exactly what it feels like in comparison to  the numerous other toilets out there (even those gritty college bachelor pad ones that make you happy you took a few minutes to clean yours). I recently returned home for the holidays and although it t'was a short trip, there were some things that definitely stood out to me as odd. Now, let it be known these aren't meant to be degrading but rather a way to share how my own views on home have changed. Of course everyone will have a different experience; Alas here are a few of the most memorable things that caused me to take a step back and philosophize, jump back in wide wonder or satisfy some deeply rooted part of my own human experience. Regardless of where you go or how long you're gone for home will never be exactly as you remember it. 

Everything is Bigger in 'Merika!

Even the Wildlife is bigger

The buildings, the cars, the ideas, the portion sizes, and the people are bigger than most places I've had the good fortune of traveling to. OK, lets not kid ourselves almost everything is bigger in America. The first time I returned to my homeland after an extended stay abroad I was surprised to see just how big Americans are. Now, I don't mean just tall, or just fat, or just big boned. It's a combination of all the above. Most folks in Korea and Japan are slim. You'll happen across a few large people but they are a rarity. Now with that said, the tallest man I've ever seen in my life actually worked for a hotel in Daegu, South Korea (he must have been over 7' )   Though he was still very thin. For me it was a shock to go from a slightly above average height and thin build to a short and skinny build in less than 14 hours of each state of being.

 Next up was the portion sizes. At my first meal out I was astounded at just how much food I was given. Looking down into the sea of french fries and the massive slab of meat someone said was a hamburger I pondered if this was meant to be shared with everyone at the table. I can't say I can complain about the size of alcoholic drinks though...

Big pick ups and big statements

Lastly the BIG open spaces always amaze me. Even though the USA has a large number of people the sheer size of space not used is probably the best BIG aspects of America. One Bald Eagle salute.

So much room for activities!!

 Beer for You, Beer for Me, Beer Everywhere!
                                (Except in Public)

In my time abroad there has been one consumer item I have missed the most, beer. Now don't get me wrong, beer is a universal drink. I wouldn't be surprised to find out when some intergalactic race finally decides to meet us face to face that it will be over a beer. Beer is indeed everywhere, but for me it is the quality of beer that makes it enjoyable. During my time in Korea I was subjected to the piss colored water they called beer. Hite and Cass were staples of the drinking life. It was cheap, the quantity was fair, it still played the devilish tricks all alcohol plays on the mind but, the quality lacked a certain something... mainly flavor and depth. Basically it reminded me of summer nights as a college student, with only a few bucks to spend, drinking PBR or Coors Lite, playing beer pong. It's fine for the time but there are better options out there. (Sorry dad! Your Budlight Lime falls into the lackluster beer category).

Delicious

Now of course foreign beers are available Hoegarden, Budweiser and Heineken are some of the more popular brands; you're going to have to pay a bit more for them though and they are rarely on tap.  Japan offers a better selection of beer from more established breweries such as Sapporo and Kirin. They also have a variety of light and dark beers. I'd rank them above Korean brews but they still lack a certain something. Here in Okinawa Orion (Oh-re-on) is popular, cheap and holds beer festivals every now and then; This is usually my go-to beer on nights out.

Not Half Bad

Now America... You're doing beer right! Not only do you have the cheaper options but also craft brews of all flavors, sizes and strength. Going back to America was like going to Beer Disney Land, you just have to try every one you can. You know you can't just linger at "it's a small world" all day with so many choices (well you could but that doesn't seem like an adventurous option). Good job 'Merika! This was one aspect of reverse culture shock that I'm more than happy to relive time and time again. The only downside I can see is not being able to drink in public. Call me an alcoholic if you want but there is nothing quite like the feeling of buying an alcoholic beverage, paying for it, walking into the fresh crisp outside air, popping open the can/bottle and drinking while you walk from from here to there. 

The Magic Touch of Paper Towels

As the old saying goes, "You never really know what you got until it's gone," this is true of paper towels in public restrooms. Since being in Asia land I can't name one time when I've regularly spotted paper towels in any public bathroom. I'm all for saving the tree's and protecting the environment from waste but it would be nice to not have to do the magic hand dance to dry my hands every time.  Besides automatic hand dryers don't always get the job done. Good looking out former colonies of Britain!

The Sports Bar Cathedrals

I hope our future descendants one day dig up a fully intact sports bar (maybe in the ashes of the Yellowstone Super Volcano... Pompeii style). They will gaze in wide wonder and postulate as to why one place needed so many video screens. They will wonder why so many chickens were sacrificed to the American football gods and of course they will taste the millennia-old beer and spirits left behind. I used to think nothing of these places. I'd simply come, order my food and drink, watch 8 different sporting events on 8 different screens and then would be on my way. Now, I need to be on speed just to keep up with the events on each TV. I have to seriously question my priorities, Should I watch tennis, UFC, Football, "Soccer," or simply watch Sports Center to get the best of all of them? Maybe it has to be the sports cult--ure in America but I simply don't understand the these places anymore. Sorry motherland this one isn't totally positive experience but good lord the food and beer are great!

Shoes Inside the House

Oh I can wear shoes inside the house? Sweet! Don't worry I've only stepped in an incomprehensible number of disgusting things on my way here... Now I can pick up some more from your floor! YES!

PDA

Unabashed public displays of affection. This was one of the things I think is kind of cool... until you see two people dry humping against a slot machine at 1AM.


Guns

Sometimes you just want to shoot some shit. Nuff said.

Police

gun... check, taser... check... face mashing club of doom... check... burger check...

American Police are intimidating. Not only do they have a gun, a taser and a gadget belt to rival Batman's, but even their cars are crime stopping beasts! Here in Japan police carry guns... but they are small .38 caliber revolvers (with the exception of special duty police officers). In Okinawa many of the police drive in K-cars (think of a car about the size of a Mini-Cooper) and there is no shatter-proof glass guarding the police from anyone in the back. As a matter of fact if you get pulled over they let you sit in the back of their car to fill out the paper work and may even have a nice chat with you (this is not sarcasm). 

Tokyo Police rocking helmets

Meanwhile in America Police walk up to your car with their hands near their semi-automatic/automatic handguns of doom. It's a given that America can be a much more violent and dangerous place for police officers, making these things necessary. With that said though it's hard to describe the unease you'll feel when this is not part of your regular life anymore.

Even a mob of Korean riot police aren't that intimidating

How about you? Have you ever experienced reverse culture shock? If you have feel free to chime in, drop your 2-10 cents into the opinion pond, or if you don't ...postulate about something you think would cause reverse culture shock!

Don't hide in the shadows like this guy! Let me know what you think!

Soju and Kimchi: The Devilish Treasures of Korea

Perhaps you may have seen the title of my last blog entry and wondered what in the hell soju and Kimchi are. It's my hope your interest was peaked and if you didn't think it was worth the time to Google fear not I'm here to tell you.

 We will begin with kimchi (김치) which seems to be the more known of the two.

      ^one variety of kimchi^

Kimchi is essentially pickled cabbage covered in pepper sauce to make it kick-in-the-mouth spicy. There are hundreds of varieties of kimchi, some using vegetables other than cabbage. It's eaten in countries all over the globe but its main consumers are found in Asia specifically Korea, Japan and China. Traditional kimchi is allowed to ferment underground in jars for months at a time until it reaches the "just right" standard. It is typically eaten with every meal and can be made into a variety of dishes including: soup, stew, fried rice and even pancakes! (the pancakes are called Kimchi jjigae for anyone interested). Kimchi is also relatively popular here in Japan and can be found in any grocery store; although it goes by the slightly different name of kimuchi(キムチ). In recent years though much of the kimchi found abroad is made and processed in manufacturing plants in China (ah the joys of cheaper labor even come into play with kimchi).

Before moving to Korea I had never even heard of this spicy dish sent from the heavens above. Nearly a year later I can't imagine living the rest of my life without it. Some folks, especially those sensitive to spicy foods, find it to be of a disagreeable taste. But, for those of us who enjoy the feeling of our mouths burning in spicy deliciousness kimchi is a cheap staple of life.

Next up is soju (소주).

    ^just a typical amount for a roof party^

Now, soju literally means "burned liquor." Which I believe to be a rather good description of it. It tastes a bit like vodka but a tinge off due to extra sugar and/or other ingredients added in its production. It also lacks the "burn" vodka leaves in the mouth and throat, making it a dangerous affair on the nights you tango with soju. It can be taken as a shot, blended with juice or mixed with beer to create mekchu(sp?). It has an alcohol content of 16-45% and is dirt cheap to purchase. It costs about $1-4USD and comes in a variety of sizes, brands and flavors.

       ^the green bottles are soju^

My first dance with soju began a few days after I had arrived in Gimhae. I was invited out to dinner with a few foreigners and of course soju made its way to the table. I had my first shot and was surprised that it lacked the "burn" I had thought it would have. Needless to say I had a few more throughout the dinner thinking it to be a weak alcohol. Then I stood up. My mind felt fine but my body was feeling it. I had to fight to stay steady around my new companions and eventually made it to my hotel slightly wobbling the entire way. After that day consuming soju was a rather usual affair for the better part of my stay in Korea.

Soju is a staple of adult Korean life. If you walk down the street and peer into the windows of restaurants or take a gander at the outdoor tables you will indubitably see the trademark green bottles littered across nearly every table. Young adults and those of a more ancient time have enjoyed and will continue to enjoy the sweet nectar of soju. 

But it's not only Koreans who enjoy soju. Worldwide two soju brands, Jinro and Lotte Liquor, sold nearly 90 million cases of Soju in 2011 (according to CNN these companies ranked first and third in worldwide hard liquor sales). Many of these cases did indeed stay within Korea but I would be hard pressed to believe if you have not run across soju at one time or another. If anyone is interested in trying this beverage it can be found most readily at Costco and is becoming increasingly popular at liquor stores across America.

I couldn't leave this post without giving at least one lesson. If you ever find yourself drinking with one of the friendly Koreans you're going to need to know how to say "cheers." (insert cheesy drum roll here). GEONBAE!! (건배) 

^yes that is indeed an octopus wielding a soju machine gun^

Tokyo Day 2: Hiking, Kenchoji Temple and Sky Tree

After seeing the Great Buddha it was time to move to another part of the city. About 300 meters behind the Great Buddha was a hiking trail I had been looking forward to trekking for at least a month. It wouldn't be a tough hike, it was just over  2 kilometers (approx. 1.3 miles for you American folk) with only one upward part. Luckily I started on the upward part. I say luckily due to the fact that it was scorching hot and it was better to get it over at the beginning and enjoy the breeze laden trail the rest of the way. Nearly every Japanese person I past said "Konichiwa" (good afternoon) as we passed. I found it rather interesting that the American foreigners I crossed paths with acted as if I wasn't even there even when I said "good afternoon" to them. So much for a common bond among countrymen!

     ^trail of destiny^

     ^view of Kamakura from the trail^

Now Japan is a relatively safe place to travel with the exception of one creature. This creature, to put it simply, is the asshole of the wild. It's powerful, it always sounds angry (though it's not particularly aggressive), and will send grown men running in the opposite direction. What is it you ask? The Japanese Hornet. It can grown up to 4 cm (1.6 in) long and kills more people (due to anaphylactic shock after its venom has entered the body) than both bears and snakes combined. Many points throughout my hike I happened upon these devilish creatures and quickly strode past them. At one point I was surrounded by the buzzing of 6 wings and decided to run to get away from them. I laughed at how silly I must have appeared and then I heard the scream of a young woman. "AHHHHHHHH!" accompanied by the tromping of feet in a full sprint. Suddenly a young British woman came around a bend in the trail flailing her arms and screaming. Then she saw me and regained what appeared to be her normal composure with the exception of a bright red face. I asked if she was okay and then she went on a rant about the wasps and how they were chasing her. We quickly parted ways but I enjoyed a good laugh after she was out of earshot.

The hike began next to the road, traveled through a thin forest which gradually became deeper until I was surrounded by trees. Then the trail led up a stairway and into a residential neighborhood. From there the trail branched off in several directions. I took the trail leading toward Ugafukujin Shrine. The next photo describes what this shrine is for if you're interested:

    

Inside the shrine many people were washing money in hopes that it would come back doubly to them. I'm not quite sure where these legends originate or how people substantiate them but they do appear to be wildly popular superstitions. Who knows maybe if you believe in something enough it will appear to come true?

      ^people washing money^

newly weds entering  Ugafukujin Shrine

After leaving the shrine I made my way down a hill back into  residential Kamakura. On the hill I passed a group of young college age guys who gave me an emphatic, "Hello!" and muttered something about me being a foreigner. I said hello back and they all burst out in excitement giving me the thumbs up and telling me to have a great day. I wish I would have snapped a picture of this Motley crew but alas I didn't and they will only live on in this blog and in memory. It's random moments such as these that make traveling exciting. Even sharing just a momentary connection with people helps to make the world a smaller and more beautiful place for both parties.

 Ugafukujin Shrine

 

neighborhood below the shrine

   

The path I took winded through a neighborhood and I decided to head toward my final destination Kenchoji Temple. It was another 2 kilometers winding through residential areas until I would reach the temple. I decided to take a back road up a hill to save some time. Along the way I found Jokomyoji a small but beautiful temple in the middle of a neighborhood. This temple features statues of the Amida trinity. Behind the temple lies a hill lies the grave of Reizei Tamesuki the founder of the Noble Reizei Family of Poets.

Jokomyoji Temple

From there I took a path which during the Kamakura period was an important trade road essentially cutting the journey through the city in half. In modern times it is nothing more than a one way road traversed by bikers, walkers and scooters. Along the way I followed an old woman who could hike like a mountain goat. She never broke her stride even when the hill was tough. On the opposite side I passed the entrance to a house that was rather impressive. It made me consider how I would like the gate to my future house to be in my future castle.

Finally I arrived at Kenchoji Temple. As I walked up to the gate I had the sudden realization  that I might be too late to the party. The gates were closed and only two young women sat outside of them looking at their cell phones and chatting away hysterically. On the sign next to them the operating hours were posted. I had missed the time by just ten minutes.

 It was then I noticed a side gate had been left open. I casually strolled in with my camera in hand and began shooting pictures. One person I passed by gave me an odd look but decided I must be there for a reason and simply said hello as she passed. I was in!

Kenchoji Temple is rated as the greatest of five Zen temples in Kamakura. It was founded in 1252 and finished in 1253. It was originally headed by a Chinese Zen master by the name of Renkei Doryu* who had come to Japan in 1246 and had spent some time in other areas before settling in Kamakura.

Even today it is an important monastery for monks in training. A casual stroll through the grounds will reveal a treasure trove of buildings, statues, gardens and other things of interest. The main temple buildings and the observatory were my favorite places at this site.

Overall I was more impressed by this temple than the Great Buddha. It is hard to imagine the countless people who have strolled through these grounds. And even harder still to see the impressions it had left upon them. All I know is that Kenchoji Temple is one place I wont easily forget.

There's one piece of advice I feel I should share before moving on. If you plan to see these places I would recommend coming really early or really late (preferably before closing time). You will get to see them without the chaos tourists tend to bring with them. Especially in the case of Kenchoji the lack of people gave it an inspiring and tranquil atmosphere. Throughout my entire time there I couldn't help but think how lucky I was to be able to enjoy that space in peace. It also gave me ample time to reflect on how limited our time is here and how we should enjoy it and pursue what we love with unabashed tenacity.

After venturing to the observatory of Kenchoji it was time to head back toward the train station and Tokyo.

Along the way I decided to pass through what appeared to be a park. Its name is Tsuruoka Hachiman Gu. I wish I could give you more information but at this point I was pretty drained and just wanted to take in one last site before the train. It had a wonderful temple like thing a lotus patch and even a gentleman practicing martial arts. Overall it was a lovely park that I wish I had spent even just a few more moments at.

From there my feet lead me through Kamakura's shopping street. Souvenirs and typical Japanese goodies were for sale throughout the entire area. I casually walked through a few and then saw a beautiful site. A woman was helping her incredibly aged mother walk down the street inch by inch. The patience that this woman had really struck me in a deep way. As they inched forward the woman's face remained free from irritation as her hands gently guided her along the side of the busy street. This was to be my last impression of Kamakura.

On the return trip to Tokyo I was much more tired than I had expected to be. Luckily I was able to find a seat where leaning my head back and catching a quick snooze was possible. This ride offered just as many interesting characters as the morning trip had.

First there was a group of college age guys next to me. One of them passed out in a rather funny way and his buddy and I caught each other trying to snap a quick picture of him. His friend laughed and laughed and laughed. Later on we were both able to snap a quick picture.

The next notable character was a middle aged man who got on the train halfway through my journey back to the city. He seemed common enough until he pulled out a paper from his bag. Needless to say this wasn't your typical newspaper. Plastered on the back was a couple in the midst of the horizontal mambo. Take a close look for yourself:

After nightfall I finally arrived at Tokyo Station. It is a much more beautiful sight at night! From there I made the final leg of my trip to my hotel The Agora Place. It`s a nice place with decent rates. The highlight for me was that I was able to see Sky Tree from my room!

After a 20 minute nap in a cloud of a bed it was time to grub. Kitty corner to the hotel was a sushi place. This is was exactly the treat I was looking for. I went in and was greeted by a middle aged woman named Keiko. She was thrilled after she learned I could speak a little broken Japanese and asked me all the typical questions: "where are you from? How old are you? Do you live in Japan etc." Luckily I was able to answer them (to some degree) and she was polite and friendly for the remainder of my stay there.

Yes, I know my hair is sexy

The sushi chef was also incredibly kind. He asked the same questions and allowed me to take a few photo's of a master at work.

It was getting late but there was one last place I wanted to see, Skytree.

Well it is a lot bigger than I imagined and I realized that as I walked there. I could see it from my hotel so I had guessed it wasn't that far away. Well I was wrong. It was exactly 2 kilometers (once again for you American Folk (1.24 miles). Which wouldn't be so bad if my poor feet hadn't traversed all of Kamakura... but now I'm just whining so I'll stop.

After I had reached there it was already closed (for future reference it closes at (8:30 pm). Now, usually this would be a major bummer but it is a beautiful sight at night and I was also able to meet a few people along the way. Two of whom were young skateboarders who were trying to photobomb a picture of mine. I asked them if I could take a picture and they were overjoyed at the prospect. One of them spoke amazing English. We shared a few moments chatting and then they rolled back into the night.

From there I took another route back to the hotel taking in all this area of Tokyo had to offer. It was a nice stroll and I happened upon a site that brought a smile to my face. Apparently police officers wear helmets inside their cars. One step closer to being real Robo Cops.

I finally arrived at my hotel and drifted into the land of Morpheus.



Stay tuned to day 3 of Tokyo up next!Some of the highlights include Ueno, a reunion with some friends from the UK and Shinjuku nightlife .